Give it a try if… You like to try out new places in town that strive to make an impact.
Steer clear if… You like cozy, quiet places with dim lights and a rigorous menu.
Strange but true: despite the tough times Spain lives in, someone has had the courage to dream big enough to bring an ambitious, world-class project to life in Barcelona. The conversion of the historic Moritz brewery, founded in 1856, into a modern, multi-tasking commercial temple (part restaurant, part brewery, part stage, part anything that may carry the “cool” label) actually took ten years, so whoever conceived is likely to regret such bad timing. Yet six months after its opening, as the initially patchy renovation proceeds and the different spaces designed by Jean Nouvel take a clearer shape, people’s appreciation is so unequivocal that Cerveseria Moritz looks set to become one of the city’s mainstays.
This Is What I Call Mainstream
I have only visited the restaurant so far, so that is all I can comment on. A place like this would probably appeal to but hardly surprise more European cities like Hamburg or even Milan, while it does make an impression in Barcelona – and a welcome one at that. A bit crowded, but not too much; a bit noisy, but not too much either; most suitable for friends’ nights out, but even a couple might find unexpected intimacy by getting lost under the neon lights and riding the buzz. An ideal place to stop by after a movie or to kick off a Saturday evening – nor would I mind trying its breakfasts or (hopefully soon?) brunches. One of those places that this city really missed so far.
Treat or Treat
From tapas to deep-fried specialties – Tutto Fritto, yeah! – to elaborate proposals or Alsatian dishes, the menu bursts with ideas and a pinch of fuzziness. How else could the menu resemble a phone book so closely, leading the management to send you home with a pocket-sized version to browse and study. The output of this money-making factory is of the “hits and misses” kind – good esqueixada and effective Flammkuchen (despite the “wrong creeeam” alert), uninspired fried squids and despicable anise buñuelos, which succesfully conjugate the verb to fry in the past perfect tense – but since it is not all about the food, and there is so much left to explore, this is definitely a place I will visit again and again. Care to join?
UPS Score (Utmost Perfection Scale): 7+/10